Shoe construction



Jan. I4, 1938. I 1 F MARSHALL i Y 2,104,043

SHQE CONSTRUCTION Filed Dec. 20, 1934 Mimi55 i DRNE 5 Y Patented Jan. 4, 1.938

UNiTED STATES suolil CONSTRUCTION v James F. Marshall,l Auburn, N. Y.

Application December 20, 1934, serial No. 758,380 14 claims; (o1. ca -45) This invention relates to an improved shoe construction and rpertains more particularly to the structure of the counter and to the method of applying lthe same.

In the conventionally constructed shoe, the counter is a one-piece member cut from leather, pasteboard or the like, and then molded or partly molded to give it a predetermined contour designed to adapt the same to be used with a multiplicity of different sizes of lasts. To illustrate, there are only from ve to ten different sizes of counters formed in this manner, depending upon the material they are composed of while there are approximately one hundred and eighty different sizes of lasts that are commonly employed in the manufacture of shoes. It is, therefore, evident that while these counters will tv some of the lasts fairly closely, they will not accurately fit the greater majority thereof.

'These .preformed counters are rst soaked in water to soften the same, and then mulled, and

then they are inserted between the lining and the rear quarter of the shoe upper after which paste o-r cement is applied with a brush, cementing may Vchine or the like upon the inner and outer sur- These combined membersr faces of the counter. are assembled upon a last and then-pulled over the last and side lasted. The shoe next `goes to the ilat bed lasting operator, Who forms and tacks the heel seat to the last. Then the shoe is beaten with a maul or the like so as'to mold the same in an endeavor more accurately to bring the counter into 4con-forrmty with the contour of the last.

It will be understood that this method of procedure'involves not only a considerable amount of time and labor, but often results in the finished shoe having an uneven interior surface due to the collection of cement at hollow places and the forming of air pockets between the counter and lining, which latter often results in a loose lining. These are prevalent in the conventional method of manufacturing shoes, as Well as other defects, such as the counter becoming misplaced during the lasting operation, or the outer surface of the upper becoming soiled by the cement inadvertently coming in contact therewith.

It will, therefore, be seen that in the conventional method of forming counters and the application thereof, the perfection of the finished shoe depends very largely upon the ability 'or skill of the operator.

It is an object of this invention to provide a counter structure for boots, shoes and the like whichmay be more readily and successfully applied than herebefore.

the Ldetails .ef the structure of the counterA and Figure l is a plan view of one of the rear quar- Another object of theV invention is to produce a counter of the above mentioned class which maybe quickly and easily'cust'om built for the last with which it is to be secured in place, whereby for each last there will be a specific counter 5 peculiarly adapted to perfectly fit the same.

Another object is to provide a counter as above described which becomes an integral part of the shoe upper and which, by reason of its perfect fit on the last, permits the shoe manufacturer to use an upper a half size smaller than usual for4 i a given last.

' a sharpwline of demarcation wheny assembled in theshoe upper.

Other objects` and advantages pertaining to the manner 4of assembling the same in the :shoe upper will more fully appear from the following description, takenin connection with the accompanying drawingy in Which:-

ters v.of a shoe upper, I

Figure `2 is a plan view of one of the sections of lmy novel counter.

,Figure is -a plan view of the doubler or fabric hacker for the quarter shown in Figure l.

Figure 4 is a plan view illustrating the rear Iquarter .shown in Figure 1, the doubler shown in Figure 3, and the counter sections shown `in Figure 2 secured together. 40 f Figure 5 is an enlarged detail sectional view taken on .line 5 5., Figure 2.

Figure 6 is a perspective view, partially in section and with the `inner shoe lining removed, illustrating the rear portion of a pair of rear quarters secured together vby the back seam with the adjacent portions of the doubler and my novel counter connected thereto.

Figure "-7 "is a perspective view of a shoe upper embodying Lthe various features of this invention ready to be applied to the last and illustrating portions thereof broken away.

Figure 8 is an enlarged detail sectional View taken online 8 8, Figure "7.

Figure 9 is an inner face view similar to Figure 6, illustrating a novel form of back seam reinforcing strip peculiarly adapted to be used with my improved counter.

Figure is an enlarged sectional view taken on line IIJ-IU, Figure 9.

Figure 11 is a perspective view of the rein-V forcing strip illustrated in Figures 9 and 10 and showing the outer face thereof.

The shoe structure, as illustrated in the drawing, comprises primarily a pair of complementary rear quartersV ID, a pair of doublers or fabric backersV II for the quarters I0, the counter I2,

vamp I3, and inner lining I4. The quarters I Il w and backers II may be constructed in any Well Y knownmanner, and as shown in Figures 1 and 3, are of substantially the same outline. These members are also nearly the same size, the only Vdifference being that each doubler is slightlyV less in width from top to bottom than the corresponding quarter so that whenV the doubler is` vedge of the quarter will project sufficiently beyond the doubler to provide a seam flange for the stitches of the back or closing seam -by Ywhich the quarters are secured to each other.

My novel counter I2 is composed of two similar Y sections 22 formed preferably from a material commonlyknown as celastic, comprising a body portion composed of fibrous material such as cloth or fabric impregnated with celluloid or other material that, after being cut or softened by the action of a solvent, becomes hard and rigid Yupon drying.

Although I preferably form the counter sections 22 from celastic or a similar material, it is to be understood thatl do not wish to be limited to any one class of material, as I may readily form the sections from other materials such as leather, a manufactured product` such as leatherboard, cardboard or the like.

Each pair of counter sections 22'is formed to be used with but one size of last. That is, for y each last there is a specic pattern from which the counter is cut and formed so Vthat each counter may be said to be custom built for a given last or the parts of the shoe formed thereon. To accomplish this result, each counter section 22 is formed with a-bottom edge 23 which extends forwardly from the rear edge 24 in substantiallya straight line and then curves outwardly or downwardly as at 23 to conform in contour and length to the bottom edge of the quarter I0, or more accurately to the doubler I I, while the rear edge 24 of each counter section conforms in outline substantially to the rear surface of the heel of the last and, therefore, tothe rear edge ofthe quarter and of the doubler.

The length of the bottom edgev of the Ycounter section is preferably substantially equal to that of the doubler, as illustrated in Figure 4, so that when the quarter, Vdoubler and counter section are assembled together, the rear edges of the doubler and counter sectionwill coincide, while the rear edge of the quarter will be spaced therebeyond to provide for the stitching flange 20 hereinbefore mentioned.

the conventional The distance from the bottom edge to the top edge of the counter section is preferably slightly less than that of the doubler so that when the counter section, doubler and quarter are assembled together, the countersection will lie a short distance below the marginal turned-over portion I5' of the quarter and the upper Vedge 25 of the counter section is preferably formed Y as illustrated in Figures 2 and 4 with the forward portion thereof curved or tapered inwardly as at 23 so as to meet the bottom edge 23 at the junction of said edge with the forward edge I'I of the doubler. The rear and top marginal edges of Yeach counter section is beveled as at 21 by skiving or otherwise so that these portions are rendered lmuchthinner in cross section than the remaining portion of the counter section and are correspondingly less rigid than the remaining portion thereof vafter the lasting operation.

The method of manufacturing the shoe upper comprising this invention consists in i'lrst cutting out the rear quarters I0, the doublers II, and the counter sections 22, after which the counter sections are skived as at 2'I and. thenV secured Vto the corresponding doubler or cloth backer II by means of stitching 29 with the bottom edge 23 and the rear edge 24 of the counter section substantially coinciding with the bottom and rear edges respectively of the doubler, as illustrated in Figure 4.

An adhesive, such as cement or paste is then applied toy the inner surface of the outside quarter lIII or to the surface of the doubler opposite to that adjacent the counter sections or to both Vthese surfaces, and the doubler and counter section are then mounted upon the outside quarter and secured thereto by the adhesive. This procedure is carried out with both the right and leftY quarter and then the quarters are secured together at their rear edges by stitching 30 in manner, as illustrated in Figure 10. Y

The reinforcing tape as 3I is then rubbed on the back seam in the conventional manner after Vwhichthe adjacent lower portions of the right and left quarters, the Vdoublers and counter sections, together with the lower portion of the tape, are secured together by a cross stitching 32 in the manner illustrated in Figure 6, and thereby securing the counter sections at the lower rear ends to the adjacent portions of the cuter quarters I0.

The top edge I5 Yof each outer quarter II is nowV folded over the adjacent portion of the corresponding doubler II, as illustrated at I5', Figure '4, and cemented thereto in the conventional manner. The vamp I3, which has previously beenformed, is then secured to the 'front edge I of each of the outer quarter members I0 as by stitching 33, Figure8.

It will be noted by referring more particularly to Figures '7 and 8, that the vamp piece I3 overlaps the adjacent edges ofthe quarters I0 so that the stitching 33 securing the vamp to the quarters extends downwardly over the forward end portion of each counter section 22, as illustrated at 34, Figure 7, and thereby provides additional means by which the counter sections'are secured to the outer quarter I0. Y

It will now be observed that the counter sections 22 are not only securely fastened to the corresponding doubler or fabric backer II before the assembled shoe upper is placed on the last, but that these sections are also securely fastened at their front and Vrear portions adjaventional manner by means of stitching 36 which secures the upper edge only of the lining to the upper edge of the outer quarters I0. This assembled shoe upper is then yready to beplaced upona last, but before doing so the lining is of the counter.

folded back away from'the counter sections, 'and a suitable solvent is applied by spraying or otherwise to the inner surface of the sections. sufli- ,Y

ciently to soften the same, after which the lining is replaced andthe upperis assembled or tacked on the last which it is to be'lasted over. Inasmuch as the counter ysections are securely maintained in position, these sections will be pulled with a uniform tension on both sides of the last during the lasting operation and thereby assist the operator in maintain-v ing the shoe members in proper relation to the l lines of the last.

Inasmuch as all portions of the upper may be firmly and tightly stretched over the last, there is less opportunity for the forming of wrinkles in the lining of the shoe, particularly in the area Furthermore, due to the close fitting of the upper to the last and particularly the pliable nature of the counter sections, the heel lasting machine will accurately register the counter around the bottom of the last and pro duce a perfect heel seat.

Also, owing to the readiness with which this counter, when softened, conforms to the contour of the last, there is very little resistance to the upper being pulled. over the last, with' the result that the top ofthe shoe will conform more accurately to the last and thus have an improved appearance. Moreover, as a result of the foregoing and of the accurate flt 'of Vthe counter to the last, the manufacturer, as pointed out above, is enabled to use an upperwhich is a half size smaller than is normal for a given last. VFurthermore, when the counter is formed from a material such as celastic, which comprises a fabric or the like impregnated with a stiffening substance such4 as Celluloid that hardens after being softened by the action of a solvent, a certain amount of this stiifeningk substance lwill penetrate the doublery andV adhere to the outer quarter, and thus maintain the associated-members in a fixed predetermined position which further acts in securing a good fit on the foot and in maintaining the shape of the shoe for an extended period.

It will be observed also, by referring to Figure l0, that owing to the counter being formedjof two sections, slightly spaced at their rear edges adjacent the back or closing seam of the shoe upper, this seam will be imbedded into the y softened adjacent edges of the counter sections so that the curve of the back of the heel of the shoe and the back seam'vvill conform to the contour of the last and present a smooth nished appearance,

The hereinbefore mentioned reinforcing `taper 3i is of the usual construction comprising a canvas or fabric body coated at one side with a suitable adhesive which permits the member being readily secured to a surface by the applica- These. conventional reinforc ing members often become loosened at the edges and curl during use and thereby produce an uneven surface which irritates the foot.

In order to overcome this defect, I have provided a reinforcing member 4D, peculiarly adapted to be used with my novel counter and which is illustrated more particularly in Figures 9, l and 11. This reinforcing member is composed preferably of the same material of which the counterrsections are made. That is, it is pref erably formed of celastic or similar material comprising a' stiifening substance which, after being softened by a solvent, becomes stiff and rigid upon drying. This reinforcing member 40 comprises an upper relatively narrow portion d adapted to extend over the adjacent edge portions of the counter sections 22 and a lower portion 40 of greater width adapted to extend some distance over adjacent portions of the counter sections at the lower edges thereof and thereby further reinforce the same at the heel seat.

This reinforcing member 40 is preferably formed With the sides and upper end thereof beveled as at 4| by rskiving or other suitable means so that when applied to the shoe upper,

it will form a smooth continuous surface across with a solvent together with the counter sections 22 so that during the lasting operationthe material cut by the solvent Will vpenetrate the members adjacent the reinforcing member 40 so that this reinforcing member is thereby firmly see cured or welde-d to rthe adjacent members of the shoe upper, thus forming a shoe upper which,

after the material is dried and becomes hardened, is very rigid, particularly near the bottom and thus offers the maximum support for the heel of the foot.

' In lieu of using the reinforcing member 4lill, I may secure a similar result by elongating the counter sections 22 so that their back edges 24 extend slightly beyond the seam flanges 20 of the uppers l-B. The stitching 29 in this case would be located as shown in Figure 4, thus leaving an unattached counter flap at the rear edge of each counter section which flap vprojects beyond the seam flange 20. These flaps would preferably be suitably skived, so that when the uppers are closed by the back seam 30, and flaps can be separated and bent away from each other and would then lap against the bodies of the counter-sections 22 and form a smooth, doublethickness reinforcement serving somewhat the same function as the reinforcement 4D.

Although I preferably form the shoe counter sections from a material such as celastic, as previously described, these sections 22 may as readily be formed from leather, prepared in the usual manner, with the exception that instead of applyingthe adhesive to the leather just prior to the lasting operation, I preferablyrcoat the leather sections before applying the same to the shoe upper with an adhesive vwhich readily softens by the application of Water and then, just 756 prior to the placing of the shoe upper on the last, I apply-water to the leather counter and tothe adhesive to soften the same in the same manner the solvent is applied Ywhen using the celastc material and thereby reduce the possibility of staining or defacing the outer surface of the quarters.

It is to be understood that irrespective of the material from which the counter sections are formed, the upper is permitted to remain upon the last until the solvent has evaporated and th members thereof have dried.

In Figure 7, I have illustrated the upper as being provided with wear piece 135 composed preferably of soft leather or the like and which is provided with a tab 45 which extends beyond the top edge of the upper. The wear piece 45 is preferably'sewed to the lining around the edges of a hole formed therein. The tab 45 is utilized to receive therethrough the fastening means, such as a tack, not shown, for securing the upper to the last, thereby eliminating the necessity of puncturing Ythe rear wall of the upper Vwith the tack, as is customary in the prevailing method of manufacturing shoes. After the upper has been lasted and dried, the tab is cut o so as to leave the upper edge of the wear piece substantially flush with therupper edge of the shoe upper.

Although I have shown and particularly described the'preferred embodiment of my invention, I do not wish to be limited to the exact construction shown, as various changes in the form and relation of parts thereof may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.

I claim: Y

1. In a shoe structure of the class wherein a pair of complementary outer quarterrsections are secured to each other at Ytheir rear ends by a back seam with the edges of said seam'facing inwardly, in combination, a counter stiffener composed of two individual Vcomplementary sections, each of said stiffener sections being arranged in overlying relation with a respective one of the quarter sections, the rear ends of the counter stiffener sections being spaced from each` other and receiving the inwardly facing edges of the back seam therebetween, means xedly securing each counter stiffener section to said respective one of the outer quarter sections, a reenforcing element composed of counter stiffener material arranged to extend across said seam and in over-lying relation with the adjacent ends of said stiffener sections, and means securing the reenforcing element to the counter stiffener sections independently of said outer quarter sections.

2. A shoe upper of the class described comprising a pair of complementary outerV quarter sections secured together by an inturned back seam, a counter stiffener composed of fibrousl material and including Vtwo complementary members, each of said members having the lower edge and the rear edge thereof paralleling substantially the lower edge and the rear edge respectively Vof the quarter sections, means fixedlyV securing each Y counter stiffener member to a respective oneof said quarter sections with the lower edge thereof substantially coincident with the lower edge of said quarter section and with the rear edges of said complementary counter stiiener members spaced apart to form a space for the back seam,

. the back seam stitches engaging the quarter sec- Y gether,V

tions only for securing said quarter sections to- 3. A shoe structure of the classdescribed comprising an outer quarter section formed with the rear edge thereof convex so as to be adapted with a complementary section to conform substantially to the contour of the vertical center portion ofthe rearsurface of the heel of a last, a counter stiffener member having its rear edge conforming tothe contour of said rear edge of the quarter section, and means securing said counter stiifener member to the inner surface only of the quarter section with the rear edge thereof slightly spaced from said rear edge of the quarter section to form a margin on said quarter section adapted with the complementary margin to form a back seam.v

4. A shoe upper of the class described comprising, in combination, two independent rear portions, a right hand portion and a left hand portion, each ofV said portions including an outer quarter section, one member of a two-part counter stiffener, and a doubler section mounted intermediate the outer quarter section and the counter stiifener member, means including a line of stitching extending along the rearupper and forward edges of each member of the counter stiffener for securing the same to its respective doubler section, separate means securing each doubler section to the inner face Vof its respective outer quarter section, and means engaging the outer quartersections only for securing said right and left hand portions to each other.

5. A shoe structure comprising an outer quarter section formed with the rear edge thereof convex so as to be adapted with a complementary section to conform substantially to the contour of the vertical center portion of the rear surface of the heel of a last, a doubler section having its rear edge conforming to the contour of said rear edge of the quarter section, means securing the doubler section tothe quarter section with the rear edge thereof slightly spaced from said rear edge of the quarter section to form a margin on said quarter section adapted with the complementary margin to form a back seam, and a counter stiffener `member secured'to one of said sections Yand having the rear edge thereof substantially conicident with and conforming to said rear edge of the doubler section.

6; A shoe structure comprising an outer quarter section formed with the rear edge thereof convex so as toV be adapted with a complementary section to conform substantially to the contour of the vertical center portion of the rear surface of the heel vof a last, a doubler Vsection having its rear edge conforming to the contour of said rear edge of the quarter section, means securing the doubler section to the quarter section with the rear edge thereof slightly spaced from said rear edge of the quarter section to form a margin on said quarter'section adapted with the comple- Vrnentary margin to form a back seam, a counter tions for shoes or the like, in combination, a pair of complementary outer quarter sections adapted to be secured together at their rear ends by a line` of stitching to form a back seam, a pair of individual complementary flexible counter stiiener members, and means including stitching securing each of the counter stiffener members to a respective one of said quarter sections, said counter Astiifener members being composed of initially flexible material capable of being formed and stiffened in such form when moistened with a liquid, formed to shape and subsequently dried in 'such shape, whereby said counter stiffener members may be readily secured to the quarter sections while in their flexible condition and may also be thereafter formed into and rendered efficacious as a counter stiffener after said quarter sections are secured together by the back seam stitching.. y

8. A structure as in claim 7 having a relatively narrow reenforcing member having a relatively thick central portion extending longitudinally thereof and being tapered transversely from said central portion outwardly to the longitudinal edges thereof, and means securing said reenforcing member to the shoe upper with the central portion ofv said member overlying the back seam and the longitudinal edges thereof in overlapping relation with the adjacent portions of the counter stiffener members.

9. A structure as inclaim 7 wherein the adjacent rear end portions of the counter stiiener members are beveled, and a reenforcing member is secured over the back seam, said reenforcing member having the frontr surface thereof substantially fiush with the adjacent front surfaces of the counter stiffener members to frm a sub- Vstantially smooth continuous surface extending across said back seam from one of said counter Y stifiener members to the other.

10. In a structure for producing rear upper sections for shoes or the like, in combination, a pair of complementary outer quarter sections, a pair of individual complementary flexible counter stiffener members spaced apart at their rear ends, means including stitching securing each of the -counter stiffener membersr to a respective one of in such shape, whereby said counter stiffener members may be readily secured to the quarter sections while in their flexible condition, and may also bethereafter formed into and rendered efficacious as a counter stiffener after said quarter sections are secured together by said stitches.

11. In a shoe structure of the class wherein a pair of complementary outer quarter sections are secured to each other at their rear ends by a back seam, a separate counter stiffener composed of two complementary members, each of said members having the rear edge thereof juxtaposed to the back seam, means fixedly securing each counter stiffener member Vto a respective one ofV said outer quarter sections, a reenforcing ele ment composed of counter stiffener material arranged to extend across said seam and in overlying relation with 'the adjacent ends of said counter stiifener members, and means securing the reenforcing element to the counter stiifener members independently of said outer quarter sections. l

12. A shoe structure as in claim 11, wherein the overlying edge portions of the counter stiffener members and th-e reenforcing element are beveled, whereby the reenforcing member forms a smooth continuous surface from one counter stiffener member to the other.

13. In a shoe structure of the class wherein a pair of complementary outer quarter sections are 'secured to each other at their rear ends b-y a back seam, and a lining for said sections extends across CII said seam, a separate counter stiffener mounted intermediate the lining and said quarter sections, said counter stiffener being composed of two complementary members, each of said members having the rear edge thereof juxtaposed to the back seam, means xedly securing each counter stiffener member to a respective one of said outer quarter sections, a reenforcing element composed of counter stiffener material interposed between the lining and the counter stiffener members in overlying relation with the adjacent ends of said counter stiiener members, and means securing the reenforcing element to the counter stiffener members.

14. A shoe structure as in claim 13 wherein the overlying edge portions of the counter stiiener members and the reenforcing element are beveled, whereby the reenforcing element forms a svmooth continuous surface from one counter lstiffener member to the other.

JAMES F. MARSHALL. 

